By joenesgarden, 1 month and 25 days ago

Blog problems ...

It appears that my blog has been hacked.  Bear with me while I fix what some moron or group of morons or a bunch of moronic program geeks has done.

At least one post has disappeared - comments and all - and my About page is gone. Perhaps I'll find more of my work destroyed by some faceless hack - time will tell.

Too bad there's no granulated coyote pee or other anti-predator particles available to deter computer hacks.

By joenesgarden, 1 month and 25 days ago

Fruits and Frustration

NOTE: this is a repost from July 7. The original mysteriously disappeared from my blog.

Yesterday was a pretty good day in the garden in spite of record heat – 85 degrees in the shade at 9:30 am and 98 degrees in the same shade at noon.  Copious amounts of water have kept vegetables producing.

  • Harvested: a quart of red raspberries, about the same amount of snow peas, a couple of heads of lettuce, and some dill and cilantro. I can't remember snow peas producing this late in the season but who's complaining.
  • Fruiting and/or flowering: sweet and hot peppers, multiple bush beans, multiple tomatoes, eggplant, ever-bearing strawberries, raspberries, and summer squash.
  • Growing and looking healthy: later planted pole beans, pumpkins, basil, zucchini, cucumbers, kale, dill, more basil, rosemary, sage, marjoram, more lettuce.

Safe Image Php?d=be0c7effb42e0b4353eb73aa7221fb1d&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww Joenesgarden Com%2Fwp Content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F07%2Fbushbeansvoles17710 Thumb On this morning's early walk through the perennials beds inter-planted with eggplant, sweet peppers, bush beans, tomatoes, basil, and lettuce I found once healthy and heavily producing Sequoia bush beans – purple flowers and beans – looking like this.  The droopy and dehydrated leaves enticed further investigation. My nemesis – voles – had a nice meal of bean roots sometime last night while I dreamed of fresh picked beans for a summer meal.

Safe Image Php?d=7c4875ca81f73e2dec469be886aefb6e&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww Joenesgarden Com%2Fwp Content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F07%2Fbushbeansvoles27710 Thumb I just don't think these vines will be producing anything. Nor will the two sweet frying pepper plants with no more roots or the three small eggplants pulled into freshly tunneled holes. The also grabbed a couple of tiny basil transplants and a coleus.

The loss of the beans – though frustrating – is not as bad as the loss of my peppers.  I can replant beans and still get a good crop. Plus I have multiple other plantings of beans in other areas. The peppers are another story. As soon as I complete this post I'm heading out into still hot, hot, hot weather (78 degrees at 7:30 am and very humid) to dig up the remaining pepper plants, put them in pots, water well, and sink them back in the ground in the same spot. I've nursed these pepper plants from seed and don't plan to let the %#*&@!^%&#@$%^&(^$#@!(*&^(%$!!!!!!!!!!!!!! voles get every last one.

I'm at a loss as to what to do to deter these voracious varmints. Any ideas - outside of get a cat or use poison bait  - are welcome.

Safe Image Php?d=a4df17e299f950e0e380df097a3e3861&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww Joenesgarden Com%2Fwp Content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F07%2Fpottedveggies7210 Thumb This experience points out the wisdom of planting vegetables in multiple areas. I planted peppers, tomatoes, beans, and peas in three different beds and have planted most other edibles in multiple locations including pots (tomatoes, beans, summer squash, eggplant, basil).

It may not be pretty but it's the only way I know of to hedge my harvests against multiple attackers.

By joenesgarden, 2 months and 2 days ago

July GOOPs: Creatures pushing me over the edge?

Here it is July 1 already.  Summer is blooming along and providing me with many Gardening Oops (GOOPs) and gardening successes . On the first of each month I share one of my GOOPs hoping to give you an edge - maybe my GOOPs will help prevent you from doing the same.

On this day, July 1, 2010, I'm really questioning my sanity.

Shake Away

A few days ago I wandered around my perennial beds sprinkling this.  Read closely. Yep, it says coyote urine granules. This is what deer browsing has pushed me to. I actually spent $15 on a jar of granulated coyote pee. I don't know how the manufacturers came to obtain enough coyote urine to granulate it and sell it in shakable containers … and I really don't want to delve into exactly how this is done (my imagination has done enough damage just questioning the process). But after spending my Saturday mulching … and mulching … and mulching, and really taking a look at how much munching has been going on, I was pushed to try yet another deer repellant. Since coyote frequent our area I hope the smell of coyote urine will be scary enough to send deer elsewhere for their midnight snack. It certainly would keep me from chomping on a plant.

coneflower buds deer munched coneflowersOf the large stands of coneflowers I have growing in unfenced areas just a few still stand 3 to 4 feet tall with buds ready to burst open in a cheery shade of dark pink. All the rest, including my few white coneflowers, stand about one foot tall, have no buds, just bare stems and a few leaves near the ground.  Morticia Addams might prefer just stems, even without any thorns, but I'd rather have flowers. I've tried multiple deer repellants over the years and none have kept deer from munching coneflowers. There have been intermittent years when my yard was not on the deer dinner path. Only then have my coneflowers blossomed freely. If I can get them to the open stage deer usually leave them alone. Look closely at the deer-pruned plants … there's tinkles of granulated coyote urine resting on the leaves at the right. If the coyote magic works I might see one or two small coneflower blossoms on these plant. If not, score another one for the deer.

I did not, however, resort to granulated coyote pee simply to have coneflowers blooming. Deer have regularly eaten my perennial sweet peas, baptisa, and asters. The only surviving leaves on the winterberry shrubs are those too high for deer to reach. Some of the four-legged eating machines have even displayed rather unusual culinary tastes – for a deer. Daffodils, butterfly bush, and Japanese ferns have all been munched this year but remained untouched during previous years. The only safe perennials in my yard are those growing within a fence.

But back to my sanity or lack thereof.  Another four-legged pest problem has led to a rather large deconstruction/reconstruction project. Years ago I molded a sloped, but sunny area of the yard into a 23 foot long, 4 foot wide planting bed. One of the long sides runs along the slope, the lower side is a fieldstone wall. Over the years I filled the bed with home-made compost until it became a very productive vegetable growing area. To keep out deer we fenced the perimeter with welded wire attached to cedar posts. All was well for many growing seasons, then we had a mild winter. The following spring began my Vole Wars. I'd plant peas. Peas would disappear into holes in the ground. I'd plant peppers (hot ones). Peppers would disappear. I lost beans, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, lettuce, cilantro. I'd plant … voles would eat. They found the rich, fluffy soil in the vegetable bed easy digging and easy dining. This caused many unpleasant words to spew from my mouth. I think I spotted troubled neighbors covering youngsters' ears and racing them out of ear shot. Apparently profanity, stomping, and launched gardening tools don't deter voles.  Neither do those solar thingys, chewing gum dropped in holes, or hose-induced floods. But I'm stubborn, I figured I could outsmart the little hairy beasts by planting vegetables in pots, filling them with the soil voles loved to dig in, then sinking the filled pots into the holes. Essentially I planted potted plants into my vegetable bed – a lot of extra, back-paining work in spring and again in the fall when pots had to be emptied and stored. I also found I had to use really heavy-duty plastic pots or the voles would gnaw through the pots to get to the plants. More unpleasant verbiage. But generally this technique worked.

My husband watched and helped with the spring pot filling/pot sinking routine … and listened to many, many, many rants over the fact that this seemed to be the only way to grow tomatoes, beans, peppers, etc., and that vegetable growing should not be so difficult or time consuming. Knowing that asking me to not plant plants is like asking me not to breath, he agreed something must be done. The result of something? The photo below. The perimeter fence is down – good thing since the cedar posts were rotting after 10 years in the ground. One of my sons dug the good soil out and piled it elsewhere. Next we will line the entire bed and sides with 1/4 inch hardware cloth – 1/4 inch to keep voles from slinking through the openings in the wire mesh. Then, hopefully, with help from the same strong back that removed the soil, we will refill the bed and re-fence the area.

veg bed redo

To increase my veggie planting area I'm heavily advocating for construction of raised beds – of course lined with hardware cloth – in an adjacent sunny area of the yard – of course fenced from deer. I currently have tomatoes, eggplant, summer squash, beans, strawberries, and pumpkins in pots (above the ground this year), and tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, zucchini, lettuce, basil, dill, cilantro, tatsoi, Alpine strawberries, and peas planted amongst perennials.

Essentially I'm spreading coyote pee to keep deer at bay, fencing below the ground to keep voles away, and fencing above the ground to keep deer from eating vegetables the voles don't get.

Sounds like sufficient cause to question anyone's sanity … even a stubborn old gardener like me.

So what's the GOOPs? Had I, at the start of my gardening life in my current location, build raised beds with liners I could have avoided much of this grief. Of course I did not know I would have vole problems – deer yes – not voles. But many good raised bed plans suggest hardware cloth to keep creatures from tunneling up from below. As far as the coyote pee goes, the only GOOPs there would be spending $15 on something that doesn't work. If I see little coneflower buds in a few weeks then no GOOPs committed. If deer continue to munch then I'm the chump.

Now that you've read my GOOPs how about sharing one of yours? Either leave your GOOPs in a comment below, or post your GOOPs on your own blog – just leave a teaser comment below with your link. Need ideas? Take a gaze at previous GOOPs posts.

By joenesgarden, 2 months and 8 days ago

A Blight on Basil

Yesterday's post covered late blight on tomatoes, just confirmed in Connecticut. Today brings news of another blight. One that attacks basil … that's right … basil. I'm just full of good news!

I missed the NPR story on basil blight earlier in the week, but caught the link from the CT NOFA (Northeast Organic Farming Association) Facebook fan page. Apparently the disease is a problem in New York, New Jersey, Ohio, and Florida. It acts and spreads much like late blight in tomatoes – via splashed soil and wind – so it is likely to impact gardeners in surrounding areas. It's also known as basil downy mildew.

The solution should you find your carefully tended basil leaves beginning to tinge yellow? Inspect the underside of the leaves for spores – they look like tiny grayish/brown specs between the veins (check out photo links below. If you find basil blight, freeze or make pesto with all the healthy leaves and destroy the remaining plant residue.  I'm only guessing you should isolate infected plants in a sealed plastic bag for trash disposal – this is what you should do with late blight infected tomatoes. I also guess you should not compost diseased plants.

Vegetable MD on basil blight – photos, more info on the pathogen, and a reporting link should your basil develop blight.

Photos of basil blight.

basil seedlings1 basil seedlings2 It just so happens that I went a little crazy planting basil this year – we LOVE pesto. I have five varieties potted in numerous containers and planted amongst perennials; large-leaved Basilico Mostruoso, Italiano Classico, Basilico Finissimo Verde a Palla, a globe-shaped bushy plant, and Greek Mini Yevani, a small leaved Ocimum-type, and lemon basil. I've also given a good number of small transplants away. The prospect that some … many … all … could be wiped out by blight, as could my tomatoes, makes me downright queasy. My mouth waters for fresh tomato and basil salads – the perfect flavors of summer.

I have no experience with basil blight. I'd love to hear from anyone who has dealt with basil blight –how fast did it come on and spread?

By joenesgarden, 2 months and 9 days ago

Late Blight – The Sequel

It's baaack … Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (CAES)recently issued the following:

-Alert for Late Blight of Tomato and Potato-

Late blight was identified on tomato plants from New Haven County on Thursday, 17 June 2010.  If you think you have seen late blight in your greenhouse, garden, or on volunteer potato plants, please contact The Plant Disease Information Office (203.974.8601).  You can also send or bring in samples for diagnosis.

Here's a quick synopsis of the CAES late blight fact sheet:

This year tomatoes and potatoes are at high risk for  Phytophthora infestans (phyto is Greek for plant and phthora means destroyer), aka late blight, because of 2009's widespread outbreak throughout Connecticut and the northeast. P. infestans overwinters in potato tubers.  Heavy rains, overhead watering, and soil disruption transports the pathogen to new plants. Infection becomes visible in 3 to 5 days and continues to grow at an alarming rate. Each individual lesion produces from 100,000 to 300,000 sporangia per day and each of these tiny buggers can go on to infect anew. Late blight can also infect other Solanaceae plants (eggplant and peppers for example) and ornamental hybrid petunias. Wind-blown sporangia can travel many, many miles.

CT's Ag Station says the pathogen does not survive in soil, plant debris, or in tomato seeds. But when I listened in on a  2009 late blight teleconference by Cornell scientists they said late blight can survive in soils for as long as 8 years.  Either way, this is one plant destroya that lives up to its name – late blight is not to be messed with. Stopping/controlling it requires daily plant inspections and immediate removal and destruction (in sealed plastic bags) of all plant material. DO NOT COMPOST infected plants or fruit. I have not yet found a clear answer as to whether it is ok to burn infected plants in an outdoor fire pit. Please respond here if you know the answer.

Olive brown lesions on plant stems, 1/2 to 3/4 inch olive brown lesions – some with yellow margins - on leaves, and dark brown, rapidly expanding lesions on fruit are all signs of late blight. Similar fungal diseases on tomatoes  include Septoria lycopersici leaf spot, usually on lower leaves which then turn yellow and drop off, (I have leaf spot every year) and early blight, Alternaria solani, which causes dark brown/black 1/2 inch dead spots that enlarge to concentric rings (a bull's eye). Follow this link for photos of tomatoes infected with late blight, Septoria, and early blight, and to read the entire tomato blight fact sheet.

More late blight info:

tomato1Don't think you are safe because you missed last year's outbreak and grew your plants from seed. An alert from CT NOFA (Northeast Organic Farming Association) confirms late blight in a backyard garden with no previous late blight problems and in tomatoes home-grown from seed. After a quick check in my gardens I can breath a brief sigh of relief – my tomatoes, so far, look healthy. Cherry tomatoes are beginning to fruit, and Pruden's Purple, Roma, and Manyel plants are all in flower. But you can be sure I will check them daily for signs of late blight.

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