joene's garden » Edibles

Nasturtium chronicles

joenesgarden — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:23:01 +0000

I plant nasturtiums for their lovely edible leaves. No, I plant them for their beautiful blossoms. No, wait, I plant them to attract aphids … because they are easy to grow … because they offer a choice of plain or variegated leaves and multiple flower colors – not my favorite purples and blues – but many other crisp warm colors. No, I plant them because they grow equally well in garden soil and containers.

Actually, I grow nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) – also known as Indian cress - for all these reasons. Since potting up a couple in large clay pots this spring, I've had nasturtium – Alaska mix (photo at right) and Moonlight – to brighten whatever corner, edge, wall, or porch I choose. Alaska Mix flower in a range of warm yellows, oranges, deep red, and peachy tones – I could do without the orange but tolerate these blossoms when grouped with the other colors – but the creamy yellow and green variegated foliage is the real reason I like Alaska mix. It provides fresh clean interest no matter the stage of growth and on really hot days the blossoms fit right in with the sweltering atmosphere.

Moonlight nasturtiums – blooming at left with bean blossoms - are my favorites for flower color. Their pale yellow blooms look wonderful next to every other color in the garden. They grow large tasty leaves that give salads a fresh-picked peppery flair, and Moonlight sends out long tendrils to intertwine the blossoms and leaves with neighboring plants. Given the right support, Moonlight will also climb.

The downside – at least some may consider it so – is aphids affinity for nasturtiums. Not sure how or why, but black aphids love, love, love nasturtiums. I use this to the advantage of neighboring plants – nasturtiums attract aphids away from their neighbors. This season I planted aphids in the same pots as a couple of extra eggplant seedlings. I thought the purple stems and fruit, and the large dark green eggplant leaves would be nicely offset by Moonlight's pale yellow flowers. What I forgot at the time is how well nasturtium draw in aphids. In one pot, aphids lit early. I resisted temptation to yank or spray - with organic Safer - the infested plants. Almost immediately ants came in for the sweet, sticky nectar released by the stem- and leaf-sucking aphids. Still I resisted pulling the increasingly sad looking nasturtiums, even when the stems were nearly black with aphids. Then, during my early morning stroll, I noticed markedly fewer aphids. Closer inspection revealed ladybugs. I can't say they were particularly fat ladybugs – don't really know how to determine if a ladybug is fat – but I can't help but see a correlation between fewer aphids and the sudden arrival of ladybugs. Had I pulled and destroyed the infested nasturtiums who knows what other garden might have benefitted by these ladybug visits. Once the infested nasturtiums finally succumbed to the aphid attack, I pulled the plants and burned them.

My other nasturtium plantings are, as yet, untouched by aphids, as are other plants in the gardens. This happens year and year again. One or two nasturtium plants attract aphids, but with nasturtiums present aphids generally steer clear of other plants.

Besides serving as a natural aphid foil, nasturtium flowers and leaves are edible – the peppery taste punches up a green salad. One of our sons used to take nasturtium leaves to school in a sandwich bag to pull out and eat as a snack, much to the surprise and angst of his fellow students and teachers. He said they taste best sprinkled with a little hot sauce. Want to create a conversation piece salad for a neighborhood get-together? Add a few nasturtium blossoms to a green salad or as garnish on a potato salad, guacamole, or other salad or dip, then watch who – if anyone – eats the flowers. Hint: strike up a conversation with whoever eats the blossoms … good chance they will have some plant knowledge.

Nasturtiums are annual in my zone 6b region. Plant the seeds in early spring – either in thawed ground or in pots. Soak the hard-coated seeds overnight to give them a good boost. Give plants full or nearly full sun – at least 4 to 6 hours and water to maintain soil moisture until seeds sprout and to prevent drooping once plants establish. The often 8 to 12 inch tall plants are good in the front of a border, but they tend to get tired as summer progresses. I prefer planting them in a spot where they can shine in spring and early- to mid-summer and be outshined by neighboring plants if they get badly hit by aphids or just get tired of dealing with summer heat. If they get too leggy just cut them back, they will often regrow into a lovely late-summer specimen.

Nasturtium come in multiple varieties. In addition to Alaska Mix and Moonlight, I've planted Empress of India – good for people who like reds, Jewel Mix with flower colors similar to Alaska Mix but solid leaves, Whirlybird Choice Mix which carries blossoms high above the foliage, and Out of Africa also with variegated foliage. I keep returning to Alaska Mix for its leaf variegation/flower combo and Moonlight for its flower color. Still, the dark red/black blossoms of Black Velvet and the color of Peach Melba intrigue me and might find their way on my seed-buying list in the future.

Check out recent shots of the amazing hanging nasturtiums at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum outside of Boston, in Brookline, Massachusetts.

Do you plant nasturtiums? Share your nasturtium story.

Categories: Edibles, Gardening, Sites to see, Techniques.
Tags: aphids, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, nasturtium.

Newsy Notes – July 16, 2010

joenesgarden — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:54:45 +0000

Gardeners and plant lovers in and near Connecticut might want to put some time aside this weekend to visit Ballek's Garden Center. On July 17 and 18 this well-established and much loved nursery holds their Huge Garden Tag Sale. I know many who picked up great perennial, annual, and hard good bargains there.

While in the area ride up the road a piece to visit Staehly Farms for some fresh local fruit and veggies, locally produced cheese and eggs, and multiple pies, condiments, and goodies. Staehly Farms also has a nice selection of small perennials as well as annuals and really nice hanging baskets (rumor has it the baskets are on sale). Like Pretty Much Picasso petunias? Mine came in 4 inch pots from Staehly Farms and look at them now.

On to more universal Newsy Notes … as gardeners we might expect the idea of a community garden in a public park to be met with open arms, but not all people in Burlington, Vermont see the creation of a community garden a plus according to an article in the Burlington Free Press. A group of volunteers proposed the idea last year and thought they had jumped through all the hoops needed to get final approval for a 110 by 140 foot area to hold about 28 plots – all raised beds – and a tool shed, the article states. But recently a group of neighbors raised some vocal opposition to the plan citing parking and other concerns. When I initially read the headline I was surprised that anyone would oppose providing the opportunity for a community garden. I love walking through the plots in Back Bay Fens Victory Garden, part of Boston's Emerald Necklace originally designed by Fredrick Law Olmstead, where so many Bostonians wield trowel and garden fork to tease fresh produce from their assigned little plot within the maze of other plots. So many clever gardening ideas grow out of the need to do more with a small area. But I have also seen community plots – and some in Back Bay – go unattended. If I were a neighbor to a community garden on public land I would want some assurance that all plots would be properly cared for so they did not become a weedy mess.

And speaking of weeds, weed scientists will be testing weed-identifying abilities of wanna-be weed scientists during the Northeastern Collegiate Weed Science Contest on July 27. Cornell University Department of Horticulture and Crop & Soil Sciences will monitor how well students from multiple universities identify weeds and apply herbicides for weed control in agricultural situations. Students will be challenged with 'grower problems' according to this press release. Associated documents put out by the Northeastern Weed Science Society offer interesting and science-based life cycle information on specific weeds – nutgrass, foxtail, horsenettle, quackgrass, crabgrass, purslane, and ragweed. Unfortunately, I found no similar contest for organic control for 'grower problems.' I know it is important for ag students to understand how to use available herbicides safely, but I'd sure like to think these same students receive an equal education on growing crops with no or minimal herbicides. Maybe I'm naive?

Finally, in case you did not see this in last week's New York Times, look now – it's called a garden system. I remember when we purchased a basketball hoop for our growing boys and it was no longer called a pole and basketball hoop but a basketball system. Well, gardening has finally reached the 'system' level of marketing. Still, for gardeners with enough cash ($3500 for a basic 8 x 10 ft system) and enough frustration from multiple produce predators – deer, woodchuck, rabbits, raccoons, chipmunks, etc. – this could be a viable solution. After perusing the multiple photos shown on the Teich Garden Systems website, I must admit I admire the ingenuity of the owners. We are in the midst of fencing below and above my vegetable garden beds to prevent voles, moles, chipmunk, and deer from reaping all I sow. Still, I'm not ready to purchase a ready made 'garden system' - to me they look like giant produce prisons or an oversized compost bin. There must be some architectural features or design alterations that would make them more visually pleasing.

Categories: Creatures, Edibles, Garden Centers/Seed Suppliers, Gardening, Newsy Items, Techniques.
Tags: Ballek's Garden Center, community gardens, creature control, garden systems, Staehly Farms, weed research.

Fruits and Frustration

joenesgarden — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 01:50:00 +0000

NOTE: this is a repost from July 7. The original mysteriously disappeared from my blog.

Yesterday was a pretty good day in the garden in spite of record heat – 85 degrees in the shade at 9:30 am and 98 degrees in the same shade at noon. Copious amounts of water have kept vegetables producing.

Harvested: a quart of red raspberries, about the same amount of snow peas, a couple of heads of lettuce, and some dill and cilantro. I can't remember snow peas producing this late in the season but who's complaining.
Fruiting and/or flowering: sweet and hot peppers, multiple bush beans, multiple tomatoes, eggplant, ever-bearing strawberries, raspberries, and summer squash.
Growing and looking healthy: later planted pole beans, pumpkins, basil, zucchini, cucumbers, kale, dill, more basil, rosemary, sage, marjoram, more lettuce.

On this morning's early walk through the perennials beds inter-planted with eggplant, sweet peppers, bush beans, tomatoes, basil, and lettuce I found once healthy and heavily producing Sequoia bush beans – purple flowers and beans – looking like this. The droopy and dehydrated leaves enticed further investigation. My nemesis – voles – had a nice meal of bean roots sometime last night while I dreamed of fresh picked beans for a summer meal.

I just don't think these vines will be producing anything. Nor will the two sweet frying pepper plants with no more roots or the three small eggplants pulled into freshly tunneled holes. The also grabbed a couple of tiny basil transplants and a coleus.

The loss of the beans – though frustrating – is not as bad as the loss of my peppers. I can replant beans and still get a good crop. Plus I have multiple other plantings of beans in other areas. The peppers are another story. As soon as I complete this post I'm heading out into still hot, hot, hot weather (78 degrees at 7:30 am and very humid) to dig up the remaining pepper plants, put them in pots, water well, and sink them back in the ground in the same spot. I've nursed these pepper plants from seed and don't plan to let the %#*&@!^%&#@$%^&(^$#@!(*&^(%$!!!!!!!!!!!!!! voles get every last one.

I'm at a loss as to what to do to deter these voracious varmints. Any ideas - outside of get a cat or use poison bait - are welcome.

This experience points out the wisdom of planting vegetables in multiple areas. I planted peppers, tomatoes, beans, and peas in three different beds and have planted most other edibles in multiple locations including pots (tomatoes, beans, summer squash, eggplant, basil).

It may not be pretty but it's the only way I know of to hedge my harvests against multiple attackers.

Categories: Creatures, Edibles, Gardening.
Tags: gardening in Connecticut, voles.

A Blight on Basil

joenesgarden — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 13:00:00 +0000

Yesterday's post covered late blight on tomatoes, just confirmed in Connecticut. Today brings news of another blight. One that attacks basil … that's right … basil. I'm just full of good news!

I missed the NPR story on basil blight earlier in the week, but caught the link from the CT NOFA (Northeast Organic Farming Association) Facebook fan page. Apparently the disease is a problem in New York, New Jersey, Ohio, and Florida. It acts and spreads much like late blight in tomatoes – via splashed soil and wind – so it is likely to impact gardeners in surrounding areas. It's also known as basil downy mildew.

The solution should you find your carefully tended basil leaves beginning to tinge yellow? Inspect the underside of the leaves for spores – they look like tiny grayish/brown specs between the veins (check out photo links below. If you find basil blight, freeze or make pesto with all the healthy leaves and destroy the remaining plant residue. I'm only guessing you should isolate infected plants in a sealed plastic bag for trash disposal – this is what you should do with late blight infected tomatoes. I also guess you should not compost diseased plants.

Vegetable MD on basil blight – photos, more info on the pathogen, and a reporting link should your basil develop blight.

Photos of basil blight.

It just so happens that I went a little crazy planting basil this year – we LOVE pesto. I have five varieties potted in numerous containers and planted amongst perennials; large-leaved Basilico Mostruoso, Italiano Classico, Basilico Finissimo Verde a Palla, a globe-shaped bushy plant, and Greek Mini Yevani, a small leaved Ocimum-type, and lemon basil. I've also given a good number of small transplants away. The prospect that some … many … all … could be wiped out by blight, as could my tomatoes, makes me downright queasy. My mouth waters for fresh tomato and basil salads – the perfect flavors of summer.

I have no experience with basil blight. I'd love to hear from anyone who has dealt with basil blight –how fast did it come on and spread?

Categories: Edibles, Gardening, Herb Highlights, Techniques.
Tags: basil, basil blight, CT NOFA, NPR, Vegetable MD.

Late Blight – The Sequel

joenesgarden — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:01:16 +0000

It's baaack … Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (CAES)recently issued the following:

-Alert for Late Blight of Tomato and Potato-

Late blight was identified on tomato plants from New Haven County on Thursday, 17 June 2010. If you think you have seen late blight in your greenhouse, garden, or on volunteer potato plants, please contact The Plant Disease Information Office (203.974.8601). You can also send or bring in samples for diagnosis.

Here's a quick synopsis of the CAES late blight fact sheet:

This year tomatoes and potatoes are at high risk for Phytophthora infestans (phyto is Greek for plant and phthora means destroyer), aka late blight, because of 2009's widespread outbreak throughout Connecticut and the northeast. P. infestans overwinters in potato tubers. Heavy rains, overhead watering, and soil disruption transports the pathogen to new plants. Infection becomes visible in 3 to 5 days and continues to grow at an alarming rate. Each individual lesion produces from 100,000 to 300,000 sporangia per day and each of these tiny buggers can go on to infect anew. Late blight can also infect other Solanaceae plants (eggplant and peppers for example) and ornamental hybrid petunias. Wind-blown sporangia can travel many, many miles.

CT's Ag Station says the pathogen does not survive in soil, plant debris, or in tomato seeds. But when I listened in on a 2009 late blight teleconference by Cornell scientists they said late blight can survive in soils for as long as 8 years. Either way, this is one plant destroya that lives up to its name – late blight is not to be messed with. Stopping/controlling it requires daily plant inspections and immediate removal and destruction (in sealed plastic bags) of all plant material. DO NOT COMPOST infected plants or fruit. I have not yet found a clear answer as to whether it is ok to burn infected plants in an outdoor fire pit. Please respond here if you know the answer.

Olive brown lesions on plant stems, 1/2 to 3/4 inch olive brown lesions – some with yellow margins - on leaves, and dark brown, rapidly expanding lesions on fruit are all signs of late blight. Similar fungal diseases on tomatoes include Septoria lycopersici leaf spot, usually on lower leaves which then turn yellow and drop off, (I have leaf spot every year) and early blight, Alternaria solani, which causes dark brown/black 1/2 inch dead spots that enlarge to concentric rings (a bull's eye). Follow this link for photos of tomatoes infected with late blight, Septoria, and early blight, and to read the entire tomato blight fact sheet.

More late blight info:

Don't think you are safe because you missed last year's outbreak and grew your plants from seed. An alert from CT NOFA (Northeast Organic Farming Association) confirms late blight in a backyard garden with no previous late blight problems and in tomatoes home-grown from seed. After a quick check in my gardens I can breath a brief sigh of relief – my tomatoes, so far, look healthy. Cherry tomatoes are beginning to fruit, and Pruden's Purple, Roma, and Manyel plants are all in flower. But you can be sure I will check them daily for signs of late blight.

Categories: Edibles, Gardening, Newsy Items, Techniques.
Tags: Connecticut Agrigultural Experiment Station, CT NOFA, gardening in Connecticut, late blight, tomatoes.